What the cellar is drinking this autumn
Four growers we have been pouring by the glass since the weather turned, and why a Loire cabernet franc belongs beside the steak frites.
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Le Journal
Notes from the house.
The kitchen, the cellar and the village. What we are cooking, what we have just opened, and the odd story from the historic Snouder's Building.
Choosing your sauce
Every steak comes with frites and a sauce of your choosing. Six of them, and the choice is not decoration.
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How to read our wine list
Two hundred bottles, arranged by where they are from rather than what they are made of. Here is why, and how to find your way around it.
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Escargots, the long way round
Garlic, parsley, good butter and a great deal of patience. Notes on the dish people cross the village for.
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Le Bar, before the room fills
A few seats are kept for walk-ins, and the hour before the dining room fills is the best of the evening.
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Moules frites, four ways
Marinière, provençale, curry, moutarde. Same mussels, four different dinners, and a strong opinion about the bread.
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A note on the Snouder's Building
The corner has been in business since the 1800s. A short history of the room we cook in, and the drugstore that came before us.
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Champagne is not only for the toast
It is the most versatile thing on the list and we keep serving it in the first ten minutes and then putting it away. A case for keeping the bottle on the table.
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Three tartares, one plate
Beef, tuna and salmon, cut to order and seasoned three different ways. The dish we would order if we were sitting down tonight.
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What the happy hour is for
Six plates, wines from eight dollars, beer at five. The point is not the discount. It is a way into the room.
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Crème brûlée, and the sound it makes
A custard with three ingredients, a sugar lid, and one thing that separates the good ones from the rest.
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The case for a cold red
Twenty minutes in the ice bucket, and a bottle you thought you knew becomes the best thing on the table.
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